After Cobh, my GPS took me down some backwater road, but fortunately I didn’t meet anyone coming the other way—not enough room to pass in many spots. When I end up on these roads, they are often formerly-paved, full of holes, and running through farmland where the farmers are in the road in their Wellington boots. I figure when they see my Dublin plate they think I’m a lost rental car driver, which is near the truth.
I did make it to the intended Ballycotton, which has a pub and a pier and ocean rescue facilities along with their lighthouse, but that’s about it besides some homes. My main guidebook is pretty comprehensive but doesn’t mention this place, yet I kept seeing it come up in local brochures for stuff to do. I figured ‘cliff walk’ sounded interesting and I wanted to hike, plus it’s free entertainment not bound by hours of operation, but I really didn’t know anything else about it and just trusted that my GPS would find the town and that I’d find the path once there. I’ve been doing that a lot and mostly get where I’m going. I’ll glance at the map before I go to confirm the direction at least makes sense, but then it’s just my British guide lady telling me where to turn (or turn around, since I don’t always understand which road she wants me to follow).
The path was mostly level and the rain that had drowned me in Cobh had passed and left a few puddles. There are a couple places where there are steps or stones down to the ocean where you can stand among the jutting rocks at the surf and guess where the tide is going to go later. It was an amazingly beautiful place and the only sound was of rolling waves. (It’s still odd to me not to hear city traffic in general, even at my house in Kinsale, but at least I have neighbors. Places like Ballycotton are basically silent of people. This time of year is still pretty quiet of tourists, too.)
I didn’t know until I came back at dark after a couple of hours that the walk is about five miles long and I should have been looking for dolphins! I think I walked most of it and it’s worth a return with visiting family.
After Ballycotton, I headed to Youghal (pronounced Yawl, y’all) to catch Crazy Horse, which was only playing in off-peak theaters. Well, I was the only one in the 48-seat room in a musty cinema built in the 1930s. I was at least hoping for some ornamentation from the era but it was just kind of smelly and ugly. Still, I liked the movie, and the little old man running the projector probably watched movies there when he was a kid. I thought at €8 it would be a nicer place but it was at least nice to do something different.
Now you’re caught up on two weekends ago! Next: Killarney and London